Text is in draft

I believe I got the initial inspiration from Duke Doks on Youtube. He creates similar types of lamps, and I was immediately drawn to them. I really wanted to make one using my 3D printer, but at that time, I didn't have much experience in 3D design.

Fortunately, I came across Shapr3D. Shapr3D is a user-friendly 3D CAD modelling app designed for the iPad. It's incredibly easy to learn, and the best part is that I can use it comfortably on the sofa or even while lying in bed. You can use Shapr3D for free with a limited number of projects, making it perfect for giving it a try.

One drawback of Shapr3D is the inability to import SVG files, but you can use fonts, which is a good starting point. There are other options like importing DFX, but using a font will suffice for now. Since installing custom fonts on the iPad is not so straightforward, I sometimes begin my project on a PC. Shaper3D has versions for both Windows and Mac, making it easy to switch between platforms.

Once I place my text on the stage in my preferred font, I convert the font to paths.

Then I rearrange the letters until I'm satisfied with the arrangement.

Now, I select the entire word and create an offset path. This will serve as the border for the word.

In some cases, it's a good time to clean up any unnecessary paths using the trim tool. One important consideration is that the full word will likely be too big to print in one piece. So I keep this in mind while cleaning up the paths, depending on the desired size of the print.

When I'm happy with the paths, it's time to extrude everything.

The outline can be printed in a darker colour and functions as the border to hold everything together. It needs to be higher than the letters because it will also hold the LED strip.

Around halfway along the border, I create a small ledge. This serves two purposes: preventing the letters from dropping into the border and hiding the direct light from the LEDs, resulting in a more diffused effect.

A helpful tip is to create a 45-degree angle on the bottom of the ledge to avoid the need for additional supports.

Now, let's proceed with creating the letters.

To make it easier, hide the full border. Extrude the letters, but not as much as the border. Eventually, they will rest on the small ledge we created.

Move the letters up and align them with the ledge.

The letters should be printed in a light colour and only a few layers thick to allow the light to shine through them. Now, you have different options for the front side. You can use the shell tool from either the front or back; both options look nice.

It's really starting to take shape now!

A very useful addition is to incorporate bridges where you want the LED strip to connect from one letter to another. Place them just below the ledge. Try to envision how the LED strip will move between the letters and add as many bridges as you think you'll need.

In my latest designs, I also included a compartment where I can fit the LED controller and a DC plug. This allows me to easily remove the power cable without any hassle.

One important detail to consider is leaving some tolerance between the letters and the border. I typically use 0.1 or 0.2 mm. If the tolerance is too small, you may need to do a lot of sanding. If you're unsure, it's best to print a tolerance check. I also have a little trick to ensure the letters don't fall out of the border in case the tolerance is a bit too big, but I'll explain that later.

And now, we are ready to export the 3D design and proceed with the printing process.

Once all the pieces are printed, the first step is to glue them together. I typically use standard super glue or model building glue.

After that, it's time to insert the LED strip. Avoid cutting the strip or removing the sticker protection, as adjustments may be necessary.

I use mini clamps to keep everything in place. Once that's done, you can remove the tape protector and stick the LED strip to the border. Leave the last part loose because you'll likely want to solder the DC-plug to it.

To secure the LED controller in the compartment I made, I use a generous amount of glue gun.

Insert the DC-plug into the design and use more glue gun to ensure everything is securely in place.

We're almost there.

Now, it's time to fit in the letters.

In my last lamp, I made the tolerance a bit too large, but I discovered an easy trick. I create a small line around each letter using my glue gun, and then I use a Dremel or sanding paper to reduce the thickness until the letter fits into the border again. The great thing about this trick is that the rubbery substance keeps the letters in place, yet they can still be easily removed if needed.

Finally, we're ready to plug in the DC power and enjoy the lamp!